Govinda Neupane
Recently, I had been to Jaipur. The city is really beautiful. It is a good destination for all tourists. But, the heritage sites are at the verge of collapse. Nearly all monuments including the beautiful Hawa Mahal and the wonderful Jal Mahal are counting their last days. The city roads are in extremely poor condition. So are the gardens. The intermediaries are busy destroying the entire tourist industry. Particularly, the auto drivers and rickshaw pullers create bitterness among tourists. If you want to go somewhere, they try hard to force you to go to another place, where they get commission for any purchases made or for the stay in the hotel. Not these poor chaps, but the hoteliers and the shopkeepers should be blamed as they create such situation by giving commission to these fellows. If the same trend that includes disappearance of heritage sites, intermediaries’ sadist behaviors and ill state of infrastructure continues, Jaypur may not last that long as a major tourist destination.
There are good sides too. The Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation (RTDC) operates buses to and from major cities such as
Delhi and
Agra. These buses are extremely reliable and comfortable. The RTDC-run hotels are comfortable in terms of facilities. Basically, the human factor is also fine, but as they are in the hospitality business, the staff members should develop hospitable attitude even more. One good sign was that the historic Amber fort and palace are being renovated. The same is needed for many other sites. The city authorities together with the state and central agencies should give priority on maintaining the heritage sites well, improving the infrastructure particularly the roads and gardens, developing more hospitable culture among the people in hospitality business and chasing away the sadist intermediaries by bringing ethics and enforcing code of conduct among the hoteliers and shopkeepers.
February 01, 2007
Monday, August 9, 2010
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Islamabad Revisited: Ups and Downs
- Govinda Neupane
Islamabad is the fast changing city in Pakistan. The city has not only gone through a sea change in its physical appearance, but its residents and visitors have also experienced several economic, political and psychological processes, which impacted on their attitude and behaviors.
Starting with its physical change, the road network has been vastly improved in comparison to a few years back. Now, the double roads glitter in asphalt all over Islamabad. It seems that roads are constructed in a way that envies all other cities in the region. The entire city has been planned well and is being maintained nicely with clean roads, green surroundings and traffic infrastructures that provide enough reasons to feel proud to all Pakistanis The negative side of this development is that the greenery has been decreased significantly and it is not the same lavishly green Islamabad as it was a few years ago. The ever expanding communication facilities that include telephone, mobile phone network and internet connectivity have made Islamabad a better place to live in. The competition among the companies involved in communication services has greatly improved the quality of such services. A number of new high rise buildings in the Blue Area have given Islamabad a majestic look. There are plenty of luxury hotels such as Islamabad Serena and comfortable B&Bs such as New Cape Grace at sector F-6/1 (please visit: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g293960-c2-Islamabad-Hotels.html). The visitors could get value for their money in such abodes. This way, Islamabad has become a more comfortable place to live in, a favorite location to travel to and a nice city to talk about if there is only one consideration and that is its physical infrastructure.
This beautiful city has now been littered with several security check points. There are hundreds of such posts at the middle of the roads pointing guns towards you and taking your pictures beside stopping your car, checking thoroughly and wasting your more valuable time in answering stupid questions. The security agencies and personnel are also under stress and most of the times behave in a rude manner, not matching to their more sober general character in normal situations. Either there is blast somewhere in Pakistan any day of the month or there is such rumor at least giving sleepless nights to Islamabad residents and visitors. Barring a few dreaded acts of terror attacks, Islamabad is not that much infected with terror activities; still people are surviving under the threat of terror. This psychological phenomenon could be seen in the behaviors of the people. This could also be seen in the market places, restaurants and private homes. Everywhere, there are guards to search you with a metal detector before you are allowed in and the eyes of the guards and the persons inside are all the time watchful and you may feel being a suspected person. This gives you sour feeling. While you talk a stranger, he or she may not be that much willing to respond. The areas like Jinnah Super and Blue Area, where you could see almost every minute a foreigner in the past, are now deserted of such faces. A few, that too, foreigners from other Asian countries could be seen there shopping. The westerners are an endangered species there. They, perhaps, are only a few in numbers and spend their time inside the buildings surrounded by high compound walls equal to the height of two or three stories. The warmth in the behaviors of the local residents also has diminished. Unavoidable suspicion is the prime culprit.
The facilities are functioning well with a deference of the type of service receivers, their numbers and the quality of services. We could take the example of the SHIFA International Hospital in sector I-8. The private enterprise that caters modern health services including diagnostics and remedies is vastly expanded by adding new infrastructure and facilities. Still, it is too crowded. In the past, the hospital was mostly attracting foreigners, but now it is simply full of Pakistanis. The collective attitudinal aspect of the facility also has changed accordingly. The behavior of the frontline hospital staff is far from friendly. They have become part of the large bureaucracy and they are no more customers welcoming. Moreover, hanging on telephones, enjoying on their mobiles for long time and making service receivers waiting has become a proud act of our frontline personnel in South Asia and that has infected to this hospital too. The professionals also have started to go by our South Asian value of maintaining hierarchy such as if a powerful person or a relative comes, he or she gets first attention. The queue is a queue and that queue could wait indefinitely. The people recollect that this was not the practice in the past in SHIFA. When the prestigious SHIFA is in such condition, it is quite normal to understand how other facilities are functioning.
The people have become more frustrated seeing the acts of their politicians. The same fellows, who were discarded long time ago, are ruling again now. In the past, the people used to call Mr. Zardari as "Mr. Ten Percent" and now they call him "Mr. Cent Percent." The seriously failed act of politics is that the hope has not been generated among the people. The fights are never ending. The fights among politicians and political parties and the fight between political leadership and military establishment are ongoing sagas in Pakistan. The new entrant, the court system also has started to exercise the legislative as well as executive power. It sounds that the lawyers and their Lords are positioning themselves as the new masters of Pakistan. Hence, the system issues are paralyzing the state system and the people are in great difficulties. But, in this very difficult circumstance too, the Pakistani people are working hard as in the past.
If there is not much change, that is the crowd in Islamabad airport assembled to receive or send off their friends or relatives. They invade the outer side of the terminal building making it nearly impossible to go inside or come outside for the passengers. There was total mess in the past; there is total mess today too. No authority listens; no security smells the threat and no change is felt necessary. While checking in, there is another strange act called anti-narcotic search/check. They throw your belongings all over in the process of search. This sounds an act of humiliation rather than searching anything. They, perhaps, think that every visitor is a smuggler of narcotics and give him or her message that they are not welcome next time. This is one area where the authorities should place attention to ensure the search process is completed without any harassment to the travelers.
In brief, in terms of building new facilities, Islamabad has done a good job. If they will preserve the wonderful greenery, that would be their commendable contribution. The terror activities have made the lives of people very difficult. While fighting against terror, the authorities should devise mechanisms that build partnerships with the people and create environment where people also could contribute whatever way they can. The service delivery mechanism could be much better if some skills are imparted and discipline in the workplace is brought back. The hospitality infrastructure could function well if the bureaucracy acts positively. Regarding improving political environment in Pakistan, it is the most complicated issue and it would not be wise to pass superficial recommendations. The change in this area should come from within.
October 25, 2009
Islamabad is the fast changing city in Pakistan. The city has not only gone through a sea change in its physical appearance, but its residents and visitors have also experienced several economic, political and psychological processes, which impacted on their attitude and behaviors.
Starting with its physical change, the road network has been vastly improved in comparison to a few years back. Now, the double roads glitter in asphalt all over Islamabad. It seems that roads are constructed in a way that envies all other cities in the region. The entire city has been planned well and is being maintained nicely with clean roads, green surroundings and traffic infrastructures that provide enough reasons to feel proud to all Pakistanis The negative side of this development is that the greenery has been decreased significantly and it is not the same lavishly green Islamabad as it was a few years ago. The ever expanding communication facilities that include telephone, mobile phone network and internet connectivity have made Islamabad a better place to live in. The competition among the companies involved in communication services has greatly improved the quality of such services. A number of new high rise buildings in the Blue Area have given Islamabad a majestic look. There are plenty of luxury hotels such as Islamabad Serena and comfortable B&Bs such as New Cape Grace at sector F-6/1 (please visit: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g293960-c2-Islamabad-Hotels.html). The visitors could get value for their money in such abodes. This way, Islamabad has become a more comfortable place to live in, a favorite location to travel to and a nice city to talk about if there is only one consideration and that is its physical infrastructure.
This beautiful city has now been littered with several security check points. There are hundreds of such posts at the middle of the roads pointing guns towards you and taking your pictures beside stopping your car, checking thoroughly and wasting your more valuable time in answering stupid questions. The security agencies and personnel are also under stress and most of the times behave in a rude manner, not matching to their more sober general character in normal situations. Either there is blast somewhere in Pakistan any day of the month or there is such rumor at least giving sleepless nights to Islamabad residents and visitors. Barring a few dreaded acts of terror attacks, Islamabad is not that much infected with terror activities; still people are surviving under the threat of terror. This psychological phenomenon could be seen in the behaviors of the people. This could also be seen in the market places, restaurants and private homes. Everywhere, there are guards to search you with a metal detector before you are allowed in and the eyes of the guards and the persons inside are all the time watchful and you may feel being a suspected person. This gives you sour feeling. While you talk a stranger, he or she may not be that much willing to respond. The areas like Jinnah Super and Blue Area, where you could see almost every minute a foreigner in the past, are now deserted of such faces. A few, that too, foreigners from other Asian countries could be seen there shopping. The westerners are an endangered species there. They, perhaps, are only a few in numbers and spend their time inside the buildings surrounded by high compound walls equal to the height of two or three stories. The warmth in the behaviors of the local residents also has diminished. Unavoidable suspicion is the prime culprit.
The facilities are functioning well with a deference of the type of service receivers, their numbers and the quality of services. We could take the example of the SHIFA International Hospital in sector I-8. The private enterprise that caters modern health services including diagnostics and remedies is vastly expanded by adding new infrastructure and facilities. Still, it is too crowded. In the past, the hospital was mostly attracting foreigners, but now it is simply full of Pakistanis. The collective attitudinal aspect of the facility also has changed accordingly. The behavior of the frontline hospital staff is far from friendly. They have become part of the large bureaucracy and they are no more customers welcoming. Moreover, hanging on telephones, enjoying on their mobiles for long time and making service receivers waiting has become a proud act of our frontline personnel in South Asia and that has infected to this hospital too. The professionals also have started to go by our South Asian value of maintaining hierarchy such as if a powerful person or a relative comes, he or she gets first attention. The queue is a queue and that queue could wait indefinitely. The people recollect that this was not the practice in the past in SHIFA. When the prestigious SHIFA is in such condition, it is quite normal to understand how other facilities are functioning.
The people have become more frustrated seeing the acts of their politicians. The same fellows, who were discarded long time ago, are ruling again now. In the past, the people used to call Mr. Zardari as "Mr. Ten Percent" and now they call him "Mr. Cent Percent." The seriously failed act of politics is that the hope has not been generated among the people. The fights are never ending. The fights among politicians and political parties and the fight between political leadership and military establishment are ongoing sagas in Pakistan. The new entrant, the court system also has started to exercise the legislative as well as executive power. It sounds that the lawyers and their Lords are positioning themselves as the new masters of Pakistan. Hence, the system issues are paralyzing the state system and the people are in great difficulties. But, in this very difficult circumstance too, the Pakistani people are working hard as in the past.
If there is not much change, that is the crowd in Islamabad airport assembled to receive or send off their friends or relatives. They invade the outer side of the terminal building making it nearly impossible to go inside or come outside for the passengers. There was total mess in the past; there is total mess today too. No authority listens; no security smells the threat and no change is felt necessary. While checking in, there is another strange act called anti-narcotic search/check. They throw your belongings all over in the process of search. This sounds an act of humiliation rather than searching anything. They, perhaps, think that every visitor is a smuggler of narcotics and give him or her message that they are not welcome next time. This is one area where the authorities should place attention to ensure the search process is completed without any harassment to the travelers.
In brief, in terms of building new facilities, Islamabad has done a good job. If they will preserve the wonderful greenery, that would be their commendable contribution. The terror activities have made the lives of people very difficult. While fighting against terror, the authorities should devise mechanisms that build partnerships with the people and create environment where people also could contribute whatever way they can. The service delivery mechanism could be much better if some skills are imparted and discipline in the workplace is brought back. The hospitality infrastructure could function well if the bureaucracy acts positively. Regarding improving political environment in Pakistan, it is the most complicated issue and it would not be wise to pass superficial recommendations. The change in this area should come from within.
October 25, 2009
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Pakistan: Some Observations, Some Impressions
Govinda Neupane
As one among the larger Islamic countries, Pakistan has its important place in the Islamic world. Due to its religious milieu, it has inherited the core values, beliefs and practices of the Arabian culture. Equally, because of its geographical positioning in South Asia, Pakistan has embedded the cultural fundamentals of the region. Hence, the society has two distinct cultural codes - South Asian and Arabian. These cultural codes offer some similarities but differ in many ways. The dissimilarities contribute to social contradictions and add to tensions. The Islamic fundamentalists influenced by the Arabian culture and the South Asian liberals further influenced by the western cultural behaviors are fighting against each other, fiercely. This is one among the main reasons that has been accelerating the upheavals in the Pakistani society. The harmony between the practitioners of Karokari and Burqa system on one side and the freedom advocates, particularly the urban liberal elites represent the two poles. One is guiding the people to recreate seventh century Arabia, whereas the other is hurriedly asking them to practice freedom, sometimes even in an irresponsible way. A large majority of the silent population is busy meeting their survival needs and has learnt to adjust with these two paths by taking a few from here and a few from there. But, the fundamentalists from both schools do not allow the people to live in peace. Therefore, the Pakistani society, most of the times, swings between Arabia and South Asia culturally.
The scenic beauty of the northern mountain region is what Pakistan should be proud of. The Karakorum highway is the result of wonderful blend of imagination, valor and technological advances. It is not that wide, neither the quality of construction is worthy to acclaim. But the commendable works in the rugged mountain terrain, unpredictable streams and river systems, young and unstable geological foundations and the mighty snow covered peaks and passes that the highway has to go through makes the work extraordinary. Moreover, the planned capital city of Islamabad envies outsiders. Particularly, its greenery, wide roads, planned residential and commercials sectors and the virgin Margalla hills glitter Islamabad. This is one of the clean cities, if not the cleanest in South Asia. The third factor that makes Pakistan wonderful is the networks of the motorways linking its major cities such as Islamabad and Lahore. The long journeys are fast and comfortable. These are the infrastructural foundations of a modern Pakistan.
The people in the rural areas work hard. They are industrious and imaginative within their limitations. The Pathans of the North-west deserve special mention as they are the warriors who not only fight in the battle field but also equally participate in investing labor productively. Unfortunately, their women folks lag far behind due to the seventh century gender stereotypes prevailing even in this modern age. People attempt to improve life by finding out appropriate jobs in formal or informal sectors. Mushrooming road-side petty income earning activities reveal the desire of the people to get things done. Although, the productivity may not be that great and the return could be unimpressive, but the will of the people is what makes them different.
The social structure of the society has been heavily influenced by feudal cultural practices and belief systems. This is true not only to rural social behaviors but also such behaviors are prevalent in the urban areas. Those, who have stayed in the west for decades are not that different. The segregation of wealth, prestige and power, and comfort level is beyond imagination. The large section of the Pakistan society is battling to keep them surviving whereas a tine minority has accumulated wealth that insures them comfort and luxury for several millenniums. If there is no positive way of redistribution of wealth, the emergence of the negative way seems not that far.
The traditional customs and practices make women’s life miserable. Even today, some killings of women are going in the name of family’s honor. In the twenty-first century, the women suffer this way in a nuclear armed Pakistan is what the rulers of the state and the society should give immediate attention. In the urban areas, and even among the educated ones, the women in general and the girls in particular look like dolls – beautiful but not that independent as their cousins in other South Asian countries are. They are educated, capable and desirous to work in the profession of their choice, but the social attitudes and the gender stereotypes prevent them exercising power to take decisions independently. However, there are some new beginnings and some girls have started to break the barriers.
Religion is one among the sensitive issues in Pakistan. Some people are highly religious in its true sense, but for many it is some sort of a ritual. The Mullahs have strong influences over the daily life of the people, particularly in the rural areas. When Pakistani leaders talk about enlightened moderation, perhaps, they keep in mind to moderate the influence of these highly conservative Mullahs. For many religio-political leaders, religion serves as a lunching pad to grab political office. The growth of religious fundamentalism has affected negatively to people’s participation in politics of their choice. The religious feuds between different sects divide people and limit their choices.
Generally, the political parties lack credibility and dynamism. A few among them are like organizational fiefdoms of some influential politico-feudal or politico-capitalist families. Although, the parties claim that they have spread allover Pakistan, they have predominantly provincial characters.
Pakistan has to attack corruption. It has to train its workforce, particularly who are in hospitality business to be more professional and hospitable. Nature has blessed Pakistan, the common men and women have been nurturing it and the young and energetic Pakistanis are ready to take the challenges of a new millennium. The Pakistani development strategy of focusing on education shall insure prosperity. Pakistan has all the ingredients to march forward. It needs to mobilize its resources wisely in an equitable and just manner. Harnessing the nature’s gifts, insuring basic equality through redistribution of wealth and opportunities among different classes, regions and nationalities and scaling new heights in science and technology are the prerequisites to build a progressive, strong and prosperous Pakistan. Therefore, Pakistan has to craft strategies to introduce inclusive democracy, cooperative federalism and transformational socio-economic agenda.
07 August, 2006
www.neupaneg.com
As one among the larger Islamic countries, Pakistan has its important place in the Islamic world. Due to its religious milieu, it has inherited the core values, beliefs and practices of the Arabian culture. Equally, because of its geographical positioning in South Asia, Pakistan has embedded the cultural fundamentals of the region. Hence, the society has two distinct cultural codes - South Asian and Arabian. These cultural codes offer some similarities but differ in many ways. The dissimilarities contribute to social contradictions and add to tensions. The Islamic fundamentalists influenced by the Arabian culture and the South Asian liberals further influenced by the western cultural behaviors are fighting against each other, fiercely. This is one among the main reasons that has been accelerating the upheavals in the Pakistani society. The harmony between the practitioners of Karokari and Burqa system on one side and the freedom advocates, particularly the urban liberal elites represent the two poles. One is guiding the people to recreate seventh century Arabia, whereas the other is hurriedly asking them to practice freedom, sometimes even in an irresponsible way. A large majority of the silent population is busy meeting their survival needs and has learnt to adjust with these two paths by taking a few from here and a few from there. But, the fundamentalists from both schools do not allow the people to live in peace. Therefore, the Pakistani society, most of the times, swings between Arabia and South Asia culturally.
The scenic beauty of the northern mountain region is what Pakistan should be proud of. The Karakorum highway is the result of wonderful blend of imagination, valor and technological advances. It is not that wide, neither the quality of construction is worthy to acclaim. But the commendable works in the rugged mountain terrain, unpredictable streams and river systems, young and unstable geological foundations and the mighty snow covered peaks and passes that the highway has to go through makes the work extraordinary. Moreover, the planned capital city of Islamabad envies outsiders. Particularly, its greenery, wide roads, planned residential and commercials sectors and the virgin Margalla hills glitter Islamabad. This is one of the clean cities, if not the cleanest in South Asia. The third factor that makes Pakistan wonderful is the networks of the motorways linking its major cities such as Islamabad and Lahore. The long journeys are fast and comfortable. These are the infrastructural foundations of a modern Pakistan.
The people in the rural areas work hard. They are industrious and imaginative within their limitations. The Pathans of the North-west deserve special mention as they are the warriors who not only fight in the battle field but also equally participate in investing labor productively. Unfortunately, their women folks lag far behind due to the seventh century gender stereotypes prevailing even in this modern age. People attempt to improve life by finding out appropriate jobs in formal or informal sectors. Mushrooming road-side petty income earning activities reveal the desire of the people to get things done. Although, the productivity may not be that great and the return could be unimpressive, but the will of the people is what makes them different.
The social structure of the society has been heavily influenced by feudal cultural practices and belief systems. This is true not only to rural social behaviors but also such behaviors are prevalent in the urban areas. Those, who have stayed in the west for decades are not that different. The segregation of wealth, prestige and power, and comfort level is beyond imagination. The large section of the Pakistan society is battling to keep them surviving whereas a tine minority has accumulated wealth that insures them comfort and luxury for several millenniums. If there is no positive way of redistribution of wealth, the emergence of the negative way seems not that far.
The traditional customs and practices make women’s life miserable. Even today, some killings of women are going in the name of family’s honor. In the twenty-first century, the women suffer this way in a nuclear armed Pakistan is what the rulers of the state and the society should give immediate attention. In the urban areas, and even among the educated ones, the women in general and the girls in particular look like dolls – beautiful but not that independent as their cousins in other South Asian countries are. They are educated, capable and desirous to work in the profession of their choice, but the social attitudes and the gender stereotypes prevent them exercising power to take decisions independently. However, there are some new beginnings and some girls have started to break the barriers.
Religion is one among the sensitive issues in Pakistan. Some people are highly religious in its true sense, but for many it is some sort of a ritual. The Mullahs have strong influences over the daily life of the people, particularly in the rural areas. When Pakistani leaders talk about enlightened moderation, perhaps, they keep in mind to moderate the influence of these highly conservative Mullahs. For many religio-political leaders, religion serves as a lunching pad to grab political office. The growth of religious fundamentalism has affected negatively to people’s participation in politics of their choice. The religious feuds between different sects divide people and limit their choices.
Generally, the political parties lack credibility and dynamism. A few among them are like organizational fiefdoms of some influential politico-feudal or politico-capitalist families. Although, the parties claim that they have spread allover Pakistan, they have predominantly provincial characters.
Pakistan has to attack corruption. It has to train its workforce, particularly who are in hospitality business to be more professional and hospitable. Nature has blessed Pakistan, the common men and women have been nurturing it and the young and energetic Pakistanis are ready to take the challenges of a new millennium. The Pakistani development strategy of focusing on education shall insure prosperity. Pakistan has all the ingredients to march forward. It needs to mobilize its resources wisely in an equitable and just manner. Harnessing the nature’s gifts, insuring basic equality through redistribution of wealth and opportunities among different classes, regions and nationalities and scaling new heights in science and technology are the prerequisites to build a progressive, strong and prosperous Pakistan. Therefore, Pakistan has to craft strategies to introduce inclusive democracy, cooperative federalism and transformational socio-economic agenda.
07 August, 2006
www.neupaneg.com
Reemerging Kabul
Govinda Neupane
I had an opportunity for going on a short journey to Kabul. When I crossed the sky over the Pakistani town of Peshawar, I felt very much excited. The plane landed in the Jalalabad airport. The sky was clear and the valley looked like an oasis situated at the bank of Kabul River. There was the debris of several destroyed small planes spread on either sides of the airport. May be, the number of such planes was 5 to 6 and also there were two tanks. After 10 minutes of stay there, the plane took off for Kabul.
The hills and mountains were completely barren. There was no sign of any plant life around hundreds of square Kilometers. The higher peaks were covered with snow. After completing passport formalities at the immigration counter, I came out and went to a hotel to stay for a few days. The agreed upon room tariff was US $35. Looking at the size of the room and the facilities, it could be considered too high, but by going through availability of facilities in Kabul the cost was reasonable. There were electric heater, TV, VCD and fridge in the room. The bed was quite clean. There were three toilets/bathrooms for the 5 guest rooms in the floor. No room had attached bath.
After having some refreshing activities such as changing dresses, washing face and unpacking the essential items and keeping them at the proper places, I went out to look around the city. The Kabul International hotel where I had stayed was centrally located. The first street I walked had a unique name – "Chicken Street". Strange enough, there was no live or dead chicken bird available. Instead, in almost all the shops either sides of the road, beautiful Afghan carpets, shawls and craft items were in display. I visited “Flower Street” and saw flower displays, departmental stores etc. The area covering all these streets and the hotel where I was staying is the center of the city. The area has been called Shar-e-Naw. There is also a park by this name.
I went to the north-west part of Kabul city and slowly proceeded to the area where the Kabul University is located. The Agriculture Ministry is very close to the University. Just south of the University, I passed through the area where each and every house was destroyed by rocket fires during the war among Mujahiddin factions between 1992 and 1996. All the neighborhoods in this area had been destroyed. The destruction and devastation was so horrible that one can see and feel the war even today. Passing through Kabul Museum, I reached the area where two majestic palaces were standing. These palaces were constructed by King Amanullah Khan and are called 'Darulaman' (places of Amanullah). The roof and several parts of one of the palaces were destroyed by the rocket fires and the other palace was also partly damaged. In the second palace (the less damaged one), the Russians had killed Hafizullah Amin. Amin was a faction leader of the then ruling communist party. He killed the then President of Afghanistan Mohammad Taraki, another faction leader. Amin had unsuccessfully tried to take control of the city and the state. I reached Bala Hissar fort at the south and also saw the place where the famous Afghan king Nadir Shah was resting. In Wazir Akbar Khan area, I saw the place where former Afghan President Najibullah was hanged by the Taliban regime.
I bought an old but very nice and colorful map of Kabul city. Also, I observed the complicated process of buying and selling at the Chicken Street. The people from the west – Europe and America were the center of attraction for the shop-keepers. Several of them were roaming around.
I was a bit surprised when I saw two western soldiers hanging their ultra-modern guns on their shoulders and carrying the pistol type of weapons tied on their thigh, walking on the street with relaxed body language. They went inside a shop where on the window glass "American CDs" was painted. Most probably, they bought CDs. When they came out, I introduced myself to them as a tourist and politely beg permission to ask a question. They asked what I wanted to know. I simply asked them that do they feel secure while walking on the street. They replied in affirmative and said that Kabul is not that bad. Barring some isolated incidences, the city is normal. Their answer reconfirmed my preliminary assessment that Kabul sounds normal. The isolated incidences are taking place everywhere. That may happen in Kabul too.
Everywhere, the construction work is going on. The multi-story buildings are coming up. Road repair works are in progress. The construction boom has created employment. The debris is being cleared. All these activities are not only expanding economic prospects but also generating new hopes for a bright future.
No one was sure about the population of Kabul. The estimated figure was about 2 million. Medley and Barrand ("Kabul: The Bradt Guide" by Dominic Medley and Jude Barrand, 2003 pp: 33) have estimated the population between 1.5 million to 2.5 million. About two million refugees from Pakistan, Iran, India and the west have already returned and most of them are staying in Kabul. Still, more than a million people are outside the country and many more are internally displaced. Those who are back are trying to start a fresh life from the scratches. Difficulties, dwindling level of self-confidence, lack of basic family and community infrastructure are the limiting factors whereas the hardened life styles, hopes and the coping strengths are the factors which may contribute for their better future. Although, they are living in the hostile physical, social and security environment, the people are immensely enterprising and are trying to live the life in a very normal way. When I asked some of the returnees, whether they want to send their children to schools, they answered in affirmative. Unfortunately, at present, the school system in the area was not functioning and the families also are heavily preoccupied to resettling and meeting their minimum survival needs.
The traffic was full of chaos. Traffic jam is very common and ruthless driving sounds part of Kabul traffic. The drivers generally had no respect for rules. In the guide-book mentioned above, I had read that there could be around 40,000 taxies. The volume and transaction needed to sustain this many number of taxies signals the level of economic activities in the city.
A friend of mine invited me for lunch. They had prepared wonderful Afghan delicacies that included Kabab, roasted chicken, green-leaf vegetable curry, Pulao, Afghani nan, lamb curry mashala, kima-bean curry, capsicum-kima (kima filled in a full sized cooked capsicum) curry, green salad, sweets, fruits and green tea. The lunch was delicious, may be one of the best I ever had.
I had the opportunity to talk with some of the Afghan intellectuals and development professionals. They had fairly good understanding of the Afghan situation. Responding to my several queries, they told the following.
Afghanistan is fast recovering from the destruction and devastation resulted due to the wars fought for over 20 years.
Taliban, Mujahiddin, Russians and Americans all added to the already existing difficulties in all areas – politics, economy, culture and infrastructure.
Particularly, Northern Alliance was responsible for the destruction of the western part of the city. The Americans are blamed for high handedness. The example includes the killing of many innocent children. Therefore, people are generally supportive to ISAF (International Security Assistance Force) but they oppose Americans.
Pakistani Mullahs are responsible for the destruction carried out by the Taliban as they created, promoted and assisted Taliban.
Some Pakistani government officials, more particularly the Mullah's provincial government of NWFP and some section of the army have soft corner towards Taliban and are helping them even today.
Pashtuns (the speaker himself was a Pashtun) are generally indifferent towards children's education. Girl's education is something they do not know.
Perhaps, geography plays a major role. The northern Afghanistan has difficult terrain but there are secondary schools for girls even in remote areas whereas in the south the picture is very different. That might have been influenced by former Soviet Union's focus on education on the other side of the northern boarder whereas the Pakistani Mullah's Madarshas influenced the south.
The security situation in the north, west and in and around Kabul is fast coming to be normal whereas there are some problems in the south and east. It is because of boarder effect and Pashtun community leader's inability to understand the foreigner's (particularly Arabs) self interest. But, the propaganda that Afghanistan is at war situation is false. Look the situation in Pakistan. How many blasts took place there? Their President has been targeted repeatedly.
Foreign terrorists are still active in Afghanistan but, now, they are not that much strong who can challenge our emerging political process. Their inability to disturb the on-going session of Loya Jirga despite maximum threats proves their weakness.
Corruption is rampant within the government system. It is partly due to low salary and partly due to the sky high ambitions of the rising middle class.
Kabul is seeing lots of economic activities and construction boom. If this trend reaches the interior, we may develop very fast. For this purpose, Afghanistan needs rehabilitation of agriculture system; focus on education and health and building social and physical infrastructure. So, we need international assistance, rain, security and stability and a functional government.
This year, the agriculture production in the north was encouraging. Due to the production in the north, the price of wheat floor has been stabilized.
The Afghans staying abroad are the major investors in the economic revival process.
The discussions were meaningful. Now, I have some insights on Afghan situation and the perception of Afghan intelligentsia regarding several issues. Also, I have some bench marks to verify and make necessary adjustments by obtaining new information.
I visited Pashtunistan square. I saw the palace and surrounding areas. I walked the road starting foreigner's darling – the Mustafa Hotel. I saw a few restaurants. It was interesting that in each and every major restaurant the menu was in US Dollar.
Indian and Pakistani songs, music and films are popular. More particularly, the Indian films are most popular.
I also visited the industrial area about 20 kilometers away from the city center at Jalalabad road. I saw many factories coming up. It sounds the future is bright and promising. I met some of the boys and talked with them in broken Urdu. They said they do not go to school as they have to work. The boys were intelligent.
As I was just roaming in the Chicken Street, one boy came to me and asked to buy a "Newsweek" with Saddam's photograph on the cover. When I declined to buy, he asked me "don't like Saddam"? I answered diplomatically by saying "I don't know". He said "Saddam good, American bad". Interesting! The small boy of about 12 years of age not only knows some English but also has his own opinion on some of the most talked about agenda items – Saddam Hussein and America.
Although, in the hotel most of the staff did not speak English; they were polite, helpful and friendly. I left Kabul with a sense of satisfaction. The city is recovering very fast. It is rediscovering its past glory and repositioning itself among the cities of South Asia. Finally, I said "good bye" to Kabul, the ancient city with a bright future in making!
The People's Review Weekly, Kathmandu, July 1- 7, 2004
I had an opportunity for going on a short journey to Kabul. When I crossed the sky over the Pakistani town of Peshawar, I felt very much excited. The plane landed in the Jalalabad airport. The sky was clear and the valley looked like an oasis situated at the bank of Kabul River. There was the debris of several destroyed small planes spread on either sides of the airport. May be, the number of such planes was 5 to 6 and also there were two tanks. After 10 minutes of stay there, the plane took off for Kabul.
The hills and mountains were completely barren. There was no sign of any plant life around hundreds of square Kilometers. The higher peaks were covered with snow. After completing passport formalities at the immigration counter, I came out and went to a hotel to stay for a few days. The agreed upon room tariff was US $35. Looking at the size of the room and the facilities, it could be considered too high, but by going through availability of facilities in Kabul the cost was reasonable. There were electric heater, TV, VCD and fridge in the room. The bed was quite clean. There were three toilets/bathrooms for the 5 guest rooms in the floor. No room had attached bath.
After having some refreshing activities such as changing dresses, washing face and unpacking the essential items and keeping them at the proper places, I went out to look around the city. The Kabul International hotel where I had stayed was centrally located. The first street I walked had a unique name – "Chicken Street". Strange enough, there was no live or dead chicken bird available. Instead, in almost all the shops either sides of the road, beautiful Afghan carpets, shawls and craft items were in display. I visited “Flower Street” and saw flower displays, departmental stores etc. The area covering all these streets and the hotel where I was staying is the center of the city. The area has been called Shar-e-Naw. There is also a park by this name.
I went to the north-west part of Kabul city and slowly proceeded to the area where the Kabul University is located. The Agriculture Ministry is very close to the University. Just south of the University, I passed through the area where each and every house was destroyed by rocket fires during the war among Mujahiddin factions between 1992 and 1996. All the neighborhoods in this area had been destroyed. The destruction and devastation was so horrible that one can see and feel the war even today. Passing through Kabul Museum, I reached the area where two majestic palaces were standing. These palaces were constructed by King Amanullah Khan and are called 'Darulaman' (places of Amanullah). The roof and several parts of one of the palaces were destroyed by the rocket fires and the other palace was also partly damaged. In the second palace (the less damaged one), the Russians had killed Hafizullah Amin. Amin was a faction leader of the then ruling communist party. He killed the then President of Afghanistan Mohammad Taraki, another faction leader. Amin had unsuccessfully tried to take control of the city and the state. I reached Bala Hissar fort at the south and also saw the place where the famous Afghan king Nadir Shah was resting. In Wazir Akbar Khan area, I saw the place where former Afghan President Najibullah was hanged by the Taliban regime.
I bought an old but very nice and colorful map of Kabul city. Also, I observed the complicated process of buying and selling at the Chicken Street. The people from the west – Europe and America were the center of attraction for the shop-keepers. Several of them were roaming around.
I was a bit surprised when I saw two western soldiers hanging their ultra-modern guns on their shoulders and carrying the pistol type of weapons tied on their thigh, walking on the street with relaxed body language. They went inside a shop where on the window glass "American CDs" was painted. Most probably, they bought CDs. When they came out, I introduced myself to them as a tourist and politely beg permission to ask a question. They asked what I wanted to know. I simply asked them that do they feel secure while walking on the street. They replied in affirmative and said that Kabul is not that bad. Barring some isolated incidences, the city is normal. Their answer reconfirmed my preliminary assessment that Kabul sounds normal. The isolated incidences are taking place everywhere. That may happen in Kabul too.
Everywhere, the construction work is going on. The multi-story buildings are coming up. Road repair works are in progress. The construction boom has created employment. The debris is being cleared. All these activities are not only expanding economic prospects but also generating new hopes for a bright future.
No one was sure about the population of Kabul. The estimated figure was about 2 million. Medley and Barrand ("Kabul: The Bradt Guide" by Dominic Medley and Jude Barrand, 2003 pp: 33) have estimated the population between 1.5 million to 2.5 million. About two million refugees from Pakistan, Iran, India and the west have already returned and most of them are staying in Kabul. Still, more than a million people are outside the country and many more are internally displaced. Those who are back are trying to start a fresh life from the scratches. Difficulties, dwindling level of self-confidence, lack of basic family and community infrastructure are the limiting factors whereas the hardened life styles, hopes and the coping strengths are the factors which may contribute for their better future. Although, they are living in the hostile physical, social and security environment, the people are immensely enterprising and are trying to live the life in a very normal way. When I asked some of the returnees, whether they want to send their children to schools, they answered in affirmative. Unfortunately, at present, the school system in the area was not functioning and the families also are heavily preoccupied to resettling and meeting their minimum survival needs.
The traffic was full of chaos. Traffic jam is very common and ruthless driving sounds part of Kabul traffic. The drivers generally had no respect for rules. In the guide-book mentioned above, I had read that there could be around 40,000 taxies. The volume and transaction needed to sustain this many number of taxies signals the level of economic activities in the city.
A friend of mine invited me for lunch. They had prepared wonderful Afghan delicacies that included Kabab, roasted chicken, green-leaf vegetable curry, Pulao, Afghani nan, lamb curry mashala, kima-bean curry, capsicum-kima (kima filled in a full sized cooked capsicum) curry, green salad, sweets, fruits and green tea. The lunch was delicious, may be one of the best I ever had.
I had the opportunity to talk with some of the Afghan intellectuals and development professionals. They had fairly good understanding of the Afghan situation. Responding to my several queries, they told the following.
Afghanistan is fast recovering from the destruction and devastation resulted due to the wars fought for over 20 years.
Taliban, Mujahiddin, Russians and Americans all added to the already existing difficulties in all areas – politics, economy, culture and infrastructure.
Particularly, Northern Alliance was responsible for the destruction of the western part of the city. The Americans are blamed for high handedness. The example includes the killing of many innocent children. Therefore, people are generally supportive to ISAF (International Security Assistance Force) but they oppose Americans.
Pakistani Mullahs are responsible for the destruction carried out by the Taliban as they created, promoted and assisted Taliban.
Some Pakistani government officials, more particularly the Mullah's provincial government of NWFP and some section of the army have soft corner towards Taliban and are helping them even today.
Pashtuns (the speaker himself was a Pashtun) are generally indifferent towards children's education. Girl's education is something they do not know.
Perhaps, geography plays a major role. The northern Afghanistan has difficult terrain but there are secondary schools for girls even in remote areas whereas in the south the picture is very different. That might have been influenced by former Soviet Union's focus on education on the other side of the northern boarder whereas the Pakistani Mullah's Madarshas influenced the south.
The security situation in the north, west and in and around Kabul is fast coming to be normal whereas there are some problems in the south and east. It is because of boarder effect and Pashtun community leader's inability to understand the foreigner's (particularly Arabs) self interest. But, the propaganda that Afghanistan is at war situation is false. Look the situation in Pakistan. How many blasts took place there? Their President has been targeted repeatedly.
Foreign terrorists are still active in Afghanistan but, now, they are not that much strong who can challenge our emerging political process. Their inability to disturb the on-going session of Loya Jirga despite maximum threats proves their weakness.
Corruption is rampant within the government system. It is partly due to low salary and partly due to the sky high ambitions of the rising middle class.
Kabul is seeing lots of economic activities and construction boom. If this trend reaches the interior, we may develop very fast. For this purpose, Afghanistan needs rehabilitation of agriculture system; focus on education and health and building social and physical infrastructure. So, we need international assistance, rain, security and stability and a functional government.
This year, the agriculture production in the north was encouraging. Due to the production in the north, the price of wheat floor has been stabilized.
The Afghans staying abroad are the major investors in the economic revival process.
The discussions were meaningful. Now, I have some insights on Afghan situation and the perception of Afghan intelligentsia regarding several issues. Also, I have some bench marks to verify and make necessary adjustments by obtaining new information.
I visited Pashtunistan square. I saw the palace and surrounding areas. I walked the road starting foreigner's darling – the Mustafa Hotel. I saw a few restaurants. It was interesting that in each and every major restaurant the menu was in US Dollar.
Indian and Pakistani songs, music and films are popular. More particularly, the Indian films are most popular.
I also visited the industrial area about 20 kilometers away from the city center at Jalalabad road. I saw many factories coming up. It sounds the future is bright and promising. I met some of the boys and talked with them in broken Urdu. They said they do not go to school as they have to work. The boys were intelligent.
As I was just roaming in the Chicken Street, one boy came to me and asked to buy a "Newsweek" with Saddam's photograph on the cover. When I declined to buy, he asked me "don't like Saddam"? I answered diplomatically by saying "I don't know". He said "Saddam good, American bad". Interesting! The small boy of about 12 years of age not only knows some English but also has his own opinion on some of the most talked about agenda items – Saddam Hussein and America.
Although, in the hotel most of the staff did not speak English; they were polite, helpful and friendly. I left Kabul with a sense of satisfaction. The city is recovering very fast. It is rediscovering its past glory and repositioning itself among the cities of South Asia. Finally, I said "good bye" to Kabul, the ancient city with a bright future in making!
The People's Review Weekly, Kathmandu, July 1- 7, 2004
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